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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising, one or more anionic surfactants, one or more particular nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g. The invention also relates to a process for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers and a use implementing said composition.
    公开号:FR3040302A1
    申请号:FR1558104
    申请日:2015-09-01
    公开日:2017-03-03
    发明作者:Estelle Mathonneau；Marie-Florence D'arras
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least two particular cationic polymers
    The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, one or more particular nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more cationic polymers having a higher cationic charge density or 4 meq / g and one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g. The invention also relates to a process for cleaning and conditioning keratin fibers and a use implementing said composition.
    For the cleaning and / or washing of keratinous fibers such as the hair, the use of detergent compositions (such as shampoos) essentially based on conventional surfactants of the anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric type, but more particularly of anionic type, is common. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of various soils initially present on the hair or skin.
    These detergent compositions certainly have a good washing power, but the cosmetic properties conferred by them still have to be improved, especially when they are applied to sensitized hair, that is to say hair which is generally damaged or weakened. by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms and / or straightening.
    Moreover, these compositions have a relatively aggressive character because their application may result in the long term on the hair fiber more or less marked damage related in particular to the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of the latter.
    Thus it is often common to use care compositions using complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents to improve the cosmetic properties of sensitized hair. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
    These care compositions are in particular hair conditioners which can be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick creams.
    However, the cationic surfactants used in such care compositions, especially in hair conditioners, are difficult to implement in detergent compositions because of their incompatibility with anionic surfactants.
    In particular, their incompatibility with the anionic surfactants may cause difficulties in stabilizing the detergent compositions and impact on the level of their use qualities, in particular in terms of foaming power and / or foam starting.
    In addition, the presence of cationic surfactants in the detergent compositions can lead, after one or more applications on the hair, to a weighting or overloading of the hair (called build-up effect in English language) thus having a negative impact on the cosmetic properties conferred.
    Moreover, such care compositions give the hair cosmetic properties that can fade after the application of one or more non-treating shampoos.
    There is therefore a real need to develop compositions intended for the cleaning and conditioning of keratinous fibers which do not have all the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say which are capable of conferring cosmetic properties improved, after one or more applications, and this without load or heavier hair, while maintaining a good washing power and satisfactory use qualities.
    This object is achieved by the present invention which has for object a cosmetic composition, preferably a capillary composition, especially intended for the cleaning and conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g.
    Indeed, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties conferred on keratinous fibers, in particular on the hair, which are preferably sensitized. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the disentangling, the suppleness as well as the feel of the hair.
    The composition according to the invention also has the advantage of being storage stable both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C, especially in terms of its visual appearance and / or its viscosity.
    By "stable" is meant in the sense of the present invention a composition which, after two months of storage from 25 to 45 ° C, shows no change in appearance, color, odor, or viscosity.
    The composition can be transparent; it can also be pearly, if necessary.
    The composition according to the invention also has satisfactory foaming power.
    The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to deposit the conditioning agents, such as the cationic polymers, in an amount sufficient to obtain adequate cosmetic conditioning properties.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention is non-coloring.
    According to the present invention, the term "non-coloring composition" is intended to mean a composition which does not contain a dye for keratinous fibers such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and / or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers. The invention therefore relates to a composition comprising the compounds as defined above.
    The present invention also relates to a process for washing and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising applying to said fibers a composition according to the invention.
    It also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a shampoo for washing and conditioning hair. Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
    In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".
    Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
    Anionic surfactants
    As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2 ', SO3H, SO3', OSO3H, OSO3 ', H2PO3, HPO3', PO32 ', H2PO2, HP (V, PO2', POH, PO '.
    Preferably, the anionic surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate and / or carboxylate groups, and / or their mixtures.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more of anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants.
    More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of anionic surfactants and in particular one or more anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups and one or more anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants.
    The anionic surfactant (s) comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups may be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and / or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then vary from 1 to 50 and in particular from 2 to 10.
    The anionic surfactant (s) comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups may be chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl amide sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, acyl isethionates and methyl sulphates. acyl taurates, olefinsulfonates, and their salts; the alkyl or acyl group of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
    Among the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups, it is preferred to use one or more sulphated anionic surfactants, preferably chosen from C 8 -C 14 alkyl sulphates and more particularly C 12 -C 14 alkyl sulphates. C14 and / or olefins sulfonates.
    Preferably, the anionic surfactant (s) comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups are in the form of salts, and in particular of alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts including aminoalcohol salts, and / or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
    More preferably, the alkyl (C12-C14) sulphates of sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium, and / or the alkyl (C12-C14) ether sulphates of sodium, ammonium or magnesium, oxyethylenated, for example to 1 or 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, or sodium olefins sulfonates.
    More preferably, the surfactant or surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium alkyl (C12-C14) ethers, oxyethylenated at 2.2. moles of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name TEXAPON N702 by the company COGNIS.
    Among the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups, it is preferred to use sodium or ammonium lauryl ether sulphates or sodium olefin sulphonates.
    The anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants that can be used according to the invention preferably comprise a C 6 -C 24 alkyl chain.
    The alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant (s) may be chosen, alone or in admixture (s), from: - (C 6 -C 24) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, - (C 6 -C 24) alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C6-C24) amido ether carboxylic acids, and their salts.
    The anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactant may be oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of alkylene oxide groups then varies preferably from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 24, and more preferably from 2 to 15.
    When the anionic alkyl ether ether carboxylic surfactants are oxyalkylenated, they preferably comprise from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, and in particular from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide (EO) groups.
    Preferably, the anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants are neutralized with one or more salts. The salts are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including aminoalcohol salts, such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine salts, and magnesium salts.
    More preferably, the polyethoxylated carboxylic anionic surfactants which correspond to the following formula (I) are used:
    R1 (OC2H4) nOCH2COOA (I) in which:
    R1 represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a mixture, a C8-C9 alkyl phenyl group, a R2CONH-CH2-CH2- group with R2 denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl group; or branched, at C11-C21, n is an integer or decimal number (average value) which can vary from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 15, A denotes H, NH 4, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine residue or triethanolamine. It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (I), in particular mixtures in which the Ri groups are different.
    Preferably, R 1 denotes a group or a mixture of groups chosen from C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl and octylphenyl groups; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; and n ranges from 2 to 20, and preferably 2 to 10.
    More preferably still, compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 denotes a C 12 alkyl group; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; and n varies from 2 to 10.
    Among the commercial products, it is preferable to use the products sold by KAO under the names: ΑΚΥΡΟ NP 70 (R 1 = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ NP 40 (R 1 = nonylphenyl, n = 4 , A = H) AKYPO®OP 40 (R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ OP 80 (R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ OP 190 (R 1 = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 38 (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 38 NV (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 45 CA (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 45 NV (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 10, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 100 NV (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 10, A = Na) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 130 (R 1 = C 12 alkyl -C14, n = 13, A = H) ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 160 NV (R 1 = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 16, A = Na), or by SANDOZ under the names: SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (Ri = C13 alkyl, n = 6, A = H) SANDOPAN DTC (R 1 = C n alkyl, n = 6, A = Na) SANDOPAN LS 24 (Ri = C 12 -C 14 alkyl, n = 12, A = Na) SANDOPAN JA 36 (R 1 = C n alkyl, n = 18, A = H), and more particularly, the products sold under the following names: ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 45 ( INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid) AKYPO®RLM 100 ΑΚΥΡΟ® RLM 38.
    Of the anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants, lauryl ether carboxylic acids or sodium lauryl ether carboxylates are preferably used.
    Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from sulphated anionic surfactants, chosen in particular from C 8 -C 14 alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (I).
    More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sulphated anionic surfactants, chosen in particular from C 8 -C 14 alkyl ether sulphates, and more particularly those containing C 12 -C 14, and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (I). as previously described.
    The anionic surfactant (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 18% by weight, better still from 4 to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Nonionic surfactants
    As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content greater than or equal to at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The nonionic surfactant (s) present in the composition according to the invention are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. By way of examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following nonionic surfactants: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 to C 30 esters of acids, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; sucrose fatty acid esters, (Cs-C3o) alkyls (poly) glucosides, (Cs-C3o) alkenyls (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 carbon atoms; glucose units, (Cs-C3o) alkyl esters (poly) glucosides, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; derivatives of N-alkyl (Cs-C3o) glucamine and N-acyl (Cs-C3o) -methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, and mixtures thereof.
    The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.
    The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably from 1 to 250, more preferably from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges from 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 10.
    Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. As an example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the monocarboxylic or polyglycerolated C 8 to C 40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used. By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, and oleic alcohol. to 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY GLY-CERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.
    Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferable to use the C 1 to C 10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C 10 to C 12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.
    The nonionic surfactant (s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from: linear or branched, oxyethylenated C 8 to C 40 saturated or unsubstituted alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; (C 8 -C 30) alkyl (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 EO) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; - C8-C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs-C30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated, esters of Cs to C30 acids. - and their mixtures.
    More preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from linear or branched, oxyethylenated, non-saturated C 5 to C 40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 50 moles. at 40 moles, or even from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C 8 -C 20 alkyl chain, in particular C 10 -C 18 alkyl; especially lauric alcohol containing 4 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name LAURETH-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: LAURETH-12).
    Thus, the nonionic surfactants are preferably chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 20 alcohols comprising from 2 to 50, in particular from 3 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
    Preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; better from 4.5 to 12% by weight.
    Amphoteric surfactants
    As indicated above, the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content greater than or equal to at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to at least 3% by weight.
    In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain. or branched having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.
    Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidalkyl (C 6 -C 8) alkylamines. C8) sulphobetaines.
    Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the following compounds of structures (II) and (III):
    Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (Rc) -CH2COO-, M +, X '(II)
    Formula wherein: Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X 'represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X 'are absent;
    Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (III)
    Formula wherein: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX '; B 'represents the group - (CH2) ZY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH2CH (OH) SO3-Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C 10 to C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an R o -COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17 and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group.
    These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
    It is also possible to use compounds of formula (IV);
    Ra "-NHCH (Y") - (CH2) nCONH (CH2) n -N (Rd) (Re) (IV)
    Wherein: Y "is -COOH, -COOZ", -CH2-CH (OH) SO3H or CH2CH (OH) SO3-Z "; - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z "represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra "represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra -COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
    Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
    These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
    Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
    Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C 8 -C 20) alkyl (C 3 -C 8) amidoalkyl betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
    Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant (s) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 3.3 to 15%, still better from 3.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    Cationic polymers
    The cosmetic composition further comprises one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g) and one or more cationic having a cationic charge density of less than 4 milliequivalents / gram.
    Thus, the composition comprises one or more highly charged cationic polymers and one or more weakly charged cationic polymers.
    The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under the conditions where it is totally ionized. It can be determined by calculation if we know the structure of the polymer, that is to say the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their moral or weight ratio. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
    For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.
    The cationic polymer or polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and the cationic polymer (s) having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g are preferably chosen from those containing units containing amine groups. primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary may be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
    The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.
    Among the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and the polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers.
    These are known products. They are especially described in French Patent Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.
    Thus, the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g are chosen from: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or of acrylic or methacrylic amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (IX), (X), (XI) or (XII):
    in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atonia or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, Rg, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
    R1 and R2, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
    Mention may in particular be made of homopolymer chloride of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate.
    The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
    Thus, among these polymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES ,
    the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name denomination RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" [DC <4 meq / g] or the products called "COPOLYMER 845 [DC> 4 meq / g]
    These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.
    dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP
    the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP
    quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP; crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" [DC> 4 meq / g] by the company CIBA. (2) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL [DC <4 meq / g]
    These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl grafted grafts especially with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallyl ammonium.
    The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch [DC <4 meq / g]. (4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.
    Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR Cl62 by the company Rhodia [DC <4 meq / g] (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent radicals alkylene or hydroxyalkylene with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are especially described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361. (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.
    Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz (8). The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two groups primary amine and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
    Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine, (9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (XIII) or (XIV):
    formulas in which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and Rg, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4), or R7 and Rg may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Rg independently of each other preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.
    Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" (charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g [DC = 6.2]) by the LUBRIZOL company (and its counterparts of low weight average molecular weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550" (charge density of less than 4 meq / g [DC = 3.1] ), MERQUAT 7SPR (charge density less than 4 meq / g [DC = 3.056]) (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units of formula (XV):
    (XV) formula (XV) in which:
    R10, R11, R12 and R-13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rio, Ru, R12 and R-13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocyclic rings optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively, Rio, R 11, R 12 and R 13 represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R14-D or -CO-NH-R14-D group where R14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
    Al and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more carbon atoms. oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
    Al, Rio and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a - (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a radical of glycol of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH ( Wherein x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
    Preferably, X 'is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
    These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.
    Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027 .020.
    Polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (XVI) can be used more particularly:
    (XVI) in which Rio. R 1, R 11 and R 13, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from approximately 2 to 8 and X "is an anion derived from an acid inorganic or organic, mention may be made in particular of the MEXOMERE PO marketed by the company CHIMEX [DC> 4 meq / g], (11) The quaternary polyammoniums consisting of repeating units of formula (XVII):
    (XVII) in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - (CH 2) r -CO-- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or to 7, X - is an anion;
    Such polymers may be prepared according to the methods described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122,324.
    Among them, there may be mentioned, for example, the products "Mirapol A 15" [DC> 4meq / g], "Mirapol ADI", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by Miranol. (12) Quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905 (DC> 4meq / g), FC 550 (DC <4meq / g) and FC 370 (DC <4meq / g) ) by BASF These polymers may also include other monomers such as diallyldialkylammonium halides. In particular, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Luviquat Sensation by the company B.A.S.F. (13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary, or oxyethylenated coconut polyamines (15 EO). Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
    Thus, the cationic polymers according to the invention having a charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g are preferably chosen from polymers belonging to the families (1) to (13) as described above.
    Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12).
    Preferably, the cationic polymer or polymers are chosen from cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (XIII) or (XIV).
    Preferably, the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq / g are chosen from homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halide, more particularly the homopolymer of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold under the denomination "MERQUAT ® 100" by the company NALCO.
    Preferably, the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g are chosen from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide (INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) marketed under the name "MERQUAT 550" or MERQUAT 7SPR ( INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) by NALCO.
    The total content of cationic polymer (s) in the composition according to the invention may vary from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight. and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    In particular, the cationic polymers according to the invention having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g may be present at a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 0.05 at 3% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The cationic polymers according to the invention having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g have a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: one or more alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants, preferably of formula (I) as defined above, one or more nonionic surfactants, in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one or more C 8 to C 40 alcohols, oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C 8 -C 20 alkyl chain; one or more amphoteric surfactants, in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one or more surfactants chosen from (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, alkyl (C 8 -C 20) and C2o) sulfobetaines, C6-C8 alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl betaines and (C8-C20) alkylamid (C6-C6) alkylsulfobetaines, - one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to at 4 meq / g selected from homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halide, and - one or more cationic having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g selected from diallyldimethylammonium halide copolymers and acrylamide.
    According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: one or more anionic surfactants chosen from sulphated anionic surfactants, especially from Cs-Ch alkyl ether sulphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants, one or more nonionic surfactants, in a total content of at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 to C 40 alcohols comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising at least at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, one or more amphoteric surfactants, in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, alkyls; (Cs-C20) sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C3-C8) alkyl betaines and (C8-C20) alkylamid (C6-C8) alkylsulfobetaines, and one or more cationic polymers having a charge density. cationic superior or equal at 4 meq / g chosen from homopolymers of diallyldialkylammonium halide, and one or more cationic compounds having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g chosen from copolymers of diallyldialkylammonium halide and of acrylamide.
    According to this second embodiment, the composition preferably comprises a mixture of sulphated anionic surfactants, chosen in particular from Cs-Cu and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to the formula ( I) as defined above.
    According to these two embodiments, the amphoteric surfactants are preferably chosen from (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines.
    According to these two embodiments, the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 4 meq / g may be chosen from homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, and cationic polymers. having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g can be chosen from copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide.
    The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiary amine and the like. butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and their mixtures.
    The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 10 and preferably from 3.5 to 7, more preferably from 4 to 5.5.
    The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as; thickeners or viscosity regulators, natural or synthetic; C12-C30 fatty alcohols; ceramides; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils such as α-olefins or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot kernel oil, camelina oil, liquid petrolatum; vitamins or provitamins; nonionic, anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preservatives; dyes; perfumes.
    In a preferred embodiment, the compsotion according to the invention may further comprise one or more amphoteric polymers chosen in particular from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from an acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) one or more units derived from an acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid monomer.
    Preferably, the units derived from an acrylamide-type monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (XVIII):
    (XVIII) wherein: - R1 is H or CH3, - R2 is selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH2OH.
    Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (XVIII).
    The unit derived from an acrylamide monomer of formula (XVIII) wherein R 1 is H and R 2 is amino is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.
    Also preferably, the units derived from an acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (XIX):
    (XIX) wherein: - R3 denotes H or CH3, - R4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; - R5 and R6, and R7, identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
    Among these units resulting from a monomer of the acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, those derived from the monomer methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y 'denote an anion are preferred. chloride.
    Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (XIX).
    Finally, the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type of the amphoteric polymer are preferably chosen from the units of formula (XX):
    (XX) in which: - Rg denotes H or CH3, - R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical -NH-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-so3h.
    The preferred units of formulas (XX) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid.
    Preferably, the unit derived from a (meth) acrylic acid monomer is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rg denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
    Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (XX).
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from an acrylamide monomer.
    Preferably, the amphoteric polymers comprise from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%.
    The content of units derived from an acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer may advantageously be as follows: from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol%.
    The content of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type may advantageously be as follows: from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from an acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%, at 60 mol%, preferably 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from an acrylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium monomer; from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid monomer.
    The amphoteric polymer (s) according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different from the units derived from an acrylamide type monomer, of the acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of the (meth) acrylic acid type.
    According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer (s) consist solely of units derived from monomers of (i) acrylamide type, of (ii) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) (meth) acrylic acid type.
    As examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the C.T.F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular marketed under the name MERQUAT 2003 by the company LUBRIZOL.
    The amphoteric polymer (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of between 0.05 and 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 and 3% by weight, and more particularly between 0.2 and 1, 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The thickening agent (s) may be chosen from cellulose thickeners, for example hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guar, marketed by the company Rhodia under the reference JAGUAR HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickening agents such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, for example Carbomer, associative polymers nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM &amp; HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
    These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The compositions according to the invention can be used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair and they are applied in this case, preferably on wet hair in amounts effective to wash them, and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands can then be eliminated after a possible pause time, by rinsing with water, the operation being able to be repeated one or more times.
    Method and use according to the invention
    Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for washing and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the application on said fibers of a composition according to the invention as defined above.
    The composition may be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to wet or damp hair.
    Preferably, the composition is applied to sensitized hair, in particular sensitized hair.
    According to one embodiment, the method consists in applying to the keratinous fibers an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, optionally kneading the fibers, possibly letting the composition on said fibers, and rinsing.
    The exposure time of the composition on the keratin fibers may be between a few seconds and 15 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 5 minutes. The composition is generally rinsed with water.
    A possible step of drying the keratinous fibers can be implemented.
    The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for the washing and conditioning of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.
    The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
    EXAMPLES
    The compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed in percent by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    The compositions are applied to strands of moderately sensitized hair (SA20) at the rate of 0.37 gram of composition per gram of hair. They are then kneaded 5 times and then rinsed with 10 finger passages under a tap at a flow rate of 4 l / minute and with a water at 38 ° C.
    A panel of 5 experts compared touch and ease of disentangling on wet hair, locks treated with formulation A compared to those treated with comparative compositions.
    权利要求:
    Claims (13)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    A composition comprising: (i) one or more anionic surfactants, (ii) one or more nonionic surfactants in a total content of at least 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, (iii) one or more amphoteric surfactants in a total content of at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (iv) one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g, and (v) one or more cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g.
    [2" id="c-fr-0002]
    2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups, the anionic alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants and or their mixtures.
    [3" id="c-fr-0003]
    3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulphate and / or sulphonate and / or phosphate groups are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkylamidosulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and alkylamido ether sulphates. alkylaryl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, acyl isethionates, methyl acyl taurates, olefin sulphonates and their salts; the alkyl or acyl group of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
    [4" id="c-fr-0004]
    4. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, and in particular of alkaline salts, in particular of sodium salts, of ammonium salts, of amine salts, of which the salts aminoalcohols, and / or magnesium salts.
    [5" id="c-fr-0005]
    5. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the anionic alkyl ether ether carboxylic surfactants are chosen from polyethoxylated carboxylic anionic surfactants of formula (I) R 1 (OC 2 H 4) n OCH 2 COOA (I) in which: R 1 represents a group or a mixture of linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl groups, a C8-C9 alkyl phenyl group, a R2CONH-CH2-CH2- group with R2 denoting a linear or branched C11 alkyl or alkenyl group; -C21, n is an integer or decimal number ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 15, A denotes H, NH 4, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
    [6" id="c-fr-0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactants represent a mixture of sulphated anionic surfactants, chosen in particular from C 8 -C 18 alkyl ether sulphates and (b) alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants. having the formula (I) as defined in claim 5.
    [7" id="c-fr-0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant (s) is (are) chosen from (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl sulphobetaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkyls. ) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines and (C8-C20) alkyl amidalkyl (C6-C8) sulfobetaines.
    [8" id="c-fr-0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants are chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C 8 to C 40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of oxide; ethylene, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and having one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; (C 8 -C 30) alkyl (poly) glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; mono- or polyglycerolated C 8 to C 40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 to C 30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 to C 30 esters of polyethylene glycols; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 30 acid esters, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol esters; - and their mixtures.
    [9" id="c-fr-0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer or polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g and the cationic polymer or polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4. meq / g are chosen from: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (IX), (X), (XI) or (XII) :



    in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide, (2) cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, (3) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, (4) cationic guar gums such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, (5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene radicals or straight-chain or branched-chain hydroxyalkylene, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers, (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoxylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. (8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, (9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas IXIII

    or fXIV): formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; Rq denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R 7 and R 8, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group. (C1-C4), or R7 and Rg may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y 'is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units of formula (XV):

    (XV) in which: R 10, R 11, R 12 and R 13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else Rio> R 11 12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, are heterocyclic rings optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R 10, R 11, R 12 and R 13 represent a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical. C 8 linear or branched substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R 14 -D or -GO-NH-R 14 -D group where R 14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more carbon atoms. oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X "refers to an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; Al, Rio and R12 may be form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring, in addition if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also designate a - (CH2) n -CO-D- OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a degree of defined and single polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. (11) Quaternary polyammoniums consisting of repeating units of formula (XVI):

    (XVI) wherein p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - (CH 2) r -CO-- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or to 7, X- is an anion; (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, and (13) polyamines.
    [10" id="c-fr-0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq / g are chosen from homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium halides.
    [11" id="c-fr-0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymers having a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq / g are chosen from copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide and of acrylamide,
    [12" id="c-fr-0012]
    12. Process for washing and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a composition according to the invention as defined according to any one of claims 1. at 11.
    [13" id="c-fr-0013]
    13. Use of the composition according to the invention as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 for washing and conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair.
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